Day trips from London: Arundel

Arundel is a town that is probably visited mostly for the castle, which is one of the largest and most well-preserved in England. The castle, which traces its history from the 11th century, is not just a museum. As it was in the 11th century, it is still the house of the Earl of Arundel, and since the 13th century it has belonged to the same Fitzalan-Howard family, whose members also hold the Duke of Norfolk title since the 15th century. This title is the second in the peerage of England; only the royal family stands above. So you can probably guess how much historical weight this place and its owners carry.

If you prefer to follow the story while keeping an eye on the map, here’s a link to the Google Maps with all points of interest marked: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Nqk1wTuLPbXmkTJu8

Even though the castle steals the show, the town has more to offer. But let’s start with the main hero first.

The castle has a rich history. Roger de Montgomery established it in the 11th century. John Fitzalan II inherited the castle in 1243. In 1555 Mary Fitzalan, the only heir, married Thomas Howard and that’s where the merged Fitzalan-Howard family began.

Throughout centuries Arundel owners were, among other things, important political figures. For example, Edward William Fitzalan-Howard, the current (18th) Duke of Norfolk holds a remarkable number of titles and honours. As hereditary Earl Marshal, he had responsibility for arranging the state funeral of Queen Elizabeth II and the accession and coronation of King Charles III.

But let’s move back to the castle itself; we will touch one interesting aspect of this family again later down the line. As for the Duke of Norfolk - you can find out more about him here: Edward Fitzalan-Howard, 18th Duke of Norfolk - Wikipedia

The castle was besieged three times, and each time the defenders suffered defeat—not so much due to failures in their defenses.

The most notable siege occurred in 1643 during the First English Civil War. Royalist forces had to surrender after 18 days of siege because they lacked drinking water. The besiegers achieved this by draining the nearby Swanbourne Lake—a brutal yet clever and effective move. The lake was connected to an underground water reservoir, which the castle accessed through a very deep well securely placed within its circular keep. Subsequently, Parliament ordered the slighting of the castle. However, it was never completely demolished or disassembled, a stroke of luck that many besieged castles did not share.

The castle’s appearance and history are adequately matched by the treasures you can find inside, collected by the family over the centuries. A particular contribution came from "the Collector Earl", Thomas Howard, 14th Earl of Arundel. He was a notable patron of the arts, travelled extensively across Europe, and, in addition to acquiring valuable art, commissioned portraits of himself and his family by contemporary masters. When he died, he possessed hundreds of paintings, along with large collections of sculptures, books, prints, drawings, jewellery, etc.

The most treasured items of the Collector Earl are now properly stored and maintained in major museums. For example, the collection of manuscripts by Leonardo da Vinci was purchased by the British Museum and transferred to the British Library. This collection is known as Codex Arundel. You can read more about Thomas Howard and his collection on Wikipedia.

Of course, not everything was transferred to museums. Just imagine how many artifacts can be found in the library alone (on the photo above).

Besides the library, the castle has several preserved and appropriately stocked period interiors. Like any respectable aristocratic residence, it also has its great hall called Barons' Hall. And everywhere you go, you will find art and relics, from arms to intricate Asian cabinets to 21st-century photographs.

As you wander through the maze of rooms and corridors, you’ll encounter numerous stained glass windows and gothic arches. On your journey you will also have a chance to take a look at the interior of the private chapel, which has a different gothic appeal than the more common style found across England.

The rear section of the castle is not open to the public, as it’s the home of the owners and likely contains offices for castle staff. In the photo above this part is situated on the left side of the inner courtyard.

While the inner courtyard itself is also not accessible to the public, people reach it via the old castle gate, which is guarded by two imposing statues - a lion and a unicorn. To access the gate, people must cross the moat using the bridge. Nowadays, the moat is accessible for walking, and the bridge is no longer a drawbridge. However, you can still imagine how it functioned in the past when the castle had a defensive purpose.

The castle is surrounded by several gardens. To the east, there are wild-looking ponds where you can spot swans and other birds, while to the south lies the fragrant rose garden. The true gem though is a sprawling main garden adorned with fountains, grottos, and an abundance of flowers that is located past the St Nicholas and Fitzalan Chapel to the west. Despite its small size, the chapel feels surprisingly airy and bright. Notably, it also serves as a family mausoleum, rich in details and history - definitely worth a visit.

Find more photographs of the castle’s various areas in my Instagram highlights: @viagatenumbereight

It’s time for us to step outside of the castle walls to explore the town.

If you reach the castle’s western garden, then you will see a rather large building of the Arundel Cathedral. Be sure to allocate enough time to visit this splendid edifice while it’s open to visitors.

The cathedral was constructed relatively recently - in 1873. However, it adheres faithfully to the French Gothic style, reminiscent of the grandeur that prevailed around 14th century - a period when the Howards family ascended to prominence in England. The building is regarded as one of the finest examples of Gothic Revival in the French Gothic tradition within the country.

Historically, the Fitzalan-Howard family were Roman Catholic. Despite the challenges faced by those who didn’t belong to the Church of England, they remained unwavering in their faith. The problems for this confession started with Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries, followed by further suppression during the 1664 Conventicle Act. Only in 1829, under the reign of King George IV, did the Roman Catholic Relief Act restore legality to this branch of Christianity. Interestingly, in one of the rooms of the Arundel Castle you can spot a pen that was used to sign this pivotal historical document.

Fast forward to 1868, when Henry Fitzalan-Howard, the 15th Duke of Norfolk, commissioned the renowned architect Joseph Hansom (who was also the inventor of the Hansom Cab) to design a new Catholic sanctuary as a harmonious counterpart to the castle itself. That’s how the Arundel Cathedral was born - a testament to faith, history, and enduring beauty.

The interior of the cathedral is where the creators’ idea shines at its brightest. After the two chapels of the castle, the style will feel familiar but elevated to a much grander scale.

The official name of this cathedral nowadays is Arundel Cathedral of Our Lady & St Philip Howard. However, it was originally dedicated to St. Philip Neri and was not a cathedral at all. It was elevated to its current status in 1965, and its dedication changed to Our Lady and Saint Philip Howard just after Pope Paul VI canonised the Earl as one of the Forty Martyrs of England and Wales in 1970. On 10 March, 1971, Philip Howard's remains were moved from the Fitzalan Chapel to the new shrine erected in the cathedral.

Why was this particular member of the family so important to the church? He suffered greatly because of his faith, among other reasons. While imprisoned, he spent much of his time writing and translating Catholic poetry and devotional literature. You can read more about his life and deeds on Wikipedia.

If you still have time and energy you can walk uphill to the north from the castle to reach Hiorne Tower. This pretty little fortress may not look much different from quite a few folly towers scattered around England. Yet this one has an interesting history and had full-time residents for decades. You can read more about it in the article by a local historian.

If you came from London by train, then instead of using the same station for your return journey, you can pass the tower and head north towards Amberley train station to take a train back to London from there. The route is a pleasant, moderate hike with hills and pastures along the River Arun.

Alternatively, you can explore the Arundel Wetlands Center, which is just to the northeast of the town. It offers walking trails, boat rides, and, of course, plenty of opportunities for birdwatching.

Thank you for joining me on this adventure! If you enjoyed this day trip, you might also be interested in exploring other destinations within the same reach:

Day trips from London: Wakehurst