Two weeks in Japan for first-time visitors

gacha machine to win cute hats for cats

This two-week plan can suit first-time visitors as it blends modern and old, city life and nature. In case you don’t have that much time - there are several shortcuts that will be covered below.

For those readers that have been to Japan - check out the places mentioned as you might find some new spots that will spark your interest.

girl with white umbrella is sitting on wooden bench and playing wordle on her phone

As many other island nations, Japan has its endemic features and unique cultural fusion, partially because it was practically closed to the rest of the world for the two and a half centuries, until the 1850s.

zen garden with rocks from within traditional japanese house

Japan is an archipelago of thousands of islands but this itinerary will focus on Honshu, the biggest one.

Link to the Google Maps with all places marked: https://maps.app.goo.gl/isddSuEMyHYoppsL7

Day 1 - Tokyo, hajimemashite

two people sleeping in park near tokyo tower on sunny day

Tokyo is one of the biggest, most densely populated cities in the world. Yet its daily life feels serene and quiet, probably because Japanese people tend to be considerate of others and respectful of personal space.

spring sunny day and two women synchronously walking under umbrellas with bright flowerbeds at background

We stayed in the business district between Shinagawa and Minato wards, close to the Yamanote line station. We chose this area as it was roughly equidistant from the places we planned to visit.

Location above crossroads with a few cars and taxis and pedestrian bridge on a sunny day

Within walking distance, the district we stayed in has a range of landmarks. You may wander through Zōjō-ji Temple - a spacious and not crowded Buddhist temple in the middle of a vast park. You will also not be able to miss the bright orange dominant - Tokyo Tower.

Roaming the area you might want to check a few small shrines that are abundant in Japanese cities and towns, with one example of those being the Mihokashima-jinja Shrine. And there's even a hint of Gothic architecture that you may spot passing the façade of Keio University - the oldest institute of western higher education in Japan.

Day 2 - Tokyo. Shibuya and Shinjuku

window to a daily world of railroad workers and offices in many highrise buildings

The room we stayed in had windows facing Mount Fuji. But it was covered in clouds as often is the case.

tokyo subway route map scheme

If you follow the plan, then this will be the day to use the subway, which is massive. However, there's a trick - the circular Yamanote line is sufficient, as all the major destinations are within walking distance from this line’s stations.

Also, Google Maps are pretty reliable and you can use them offline. Alternatively, you can download the subway map (Tokyo Metro | Subway Map) and the map of JR East network which includes the Yamanote line (JR East Railway Major Route:Metropolitan Area)

zebra crossing with hundreds of people at the same with skyscrapers around and some trees

The itinerary starts at the Shibuya Crossing - one of the busiest crossroads in the world and a sight to behold. There are different vantage points, but one of the more convenient ones is at Starbucks. It gives you a view from above and a morning coffee if you like it their way. It’s quite popular though so be ready to queue for the window spot.

Near the crossing, you can also find the Hachiko memorial - the bronze statue of a well-known dog.

place in park with twisted lush green trees and a curve of a road with bright sun shining through branches

From the crossing, you can head north towards the Yoyogi Park. We were there in May, so the park was lush green. Magnificent trees, ponds, birds, flowers - a lot of natural beauty to offer.

Moreover, the park has a few notable buildings for the admirers of architecture, e.g. Yoyogi National Gymnasium which was designed by the renowned architect Kenzo Tange for the 1964 Olympics.

tall beige gate entrance to shinto shrine with trees behind and cloudy sky

There are several exits from Yoyogi Park, but you might want to use the westernmost one, near the Harajuku station, to enter the next sight via its main entrance greeting visitors with a tall Ichino Torii gate.

The path beyond the gate winds through the forest towards an important Shinto shrine called Meiji Jingu Shrine. It is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shōken.

Shinto shrines have a bit of a casual vibe and are more on the tourist-friendly side. Wander around, take photos, write wishes, and perform a water purification ritual if you fancy, just be respectful, abide by rules and rituals, and generally be considerate of others.

There's another green oasis nearby - the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden - which you can easily reach by leaving the shrine's ground towards the northeast. That place, as the name suggests, in contrast to the forest-like area of Yoyogi Park and the shrine, is a former estate turned into a formal garden, with koi fish, elegant bridges and traditional tea houses.

twin tower skyscraper dramatically rising to the blue sky with bright red art sculpture in foreground

An option to wrap up the day is to proceed northwest towards the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building - a distinctive skyscraper topped with twin towers designed by the aforementioned Kenzo Tange.

This building offers visitors an observation deck, free of charge. If you time it right (which we didn’t, as we spent a lot of time exploring parks) then you can catch the sunset that is surely magnificent.

Make sure to check their official website for opening times.

Day 3 - Tokyo. Asakusa and Akihabara

sunflower toy waving from balcony of residential house

The previous day led us west and offered lots of greenery. So the suggestion for day three is to have a contrast - head north to a couple of busy areas with a brief detour to admire the mighty Sumida river.

You can start the day with the Asakusa area, where you will find glimpses of an older Tokyo. The area's epicentre is the Sensō-ji Buddhist Temple - the oldest in the city. But there are other interesting places, like Kappabashi Dougu Street where you can find everything you can imagine to equip your kitchen and dining room.

It's possible to get right to the temple using the subway, but it might be better to reach Ueno station by Yamanote line and then walk to the west exploring various old and new streets on your way to the temple.

The main entrance to the temple is at some distance to the south of its main buildings, connected to the car traffic by a long Nakamise pedestrian street - a grand and busy path lined with craft shops, street-food stalls, and other vendors selling everything from small souvenirs to expensive kimonos. Monumental gates mark the border between the temple grounds and car traffic. There, at the crossroads of Nakamise and Kaminarimon streets, you might also want to visit the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center - a modern architecture building with a free observation deck offering gorgeous views. It's especially interesting to watch the rickshaw station in operation from above.

I would suggest walking towards the observation deck first, then reaching the temple. But the opposite way is no worse by all means. Depending on your time - feel free to skip some parts, but I would keep the temple as it's a sight not to miss.

tokyo sky tree from below on a clear sunny day with spotless cloudless sky and tree in the foreground

Exploring Asakusa, it's impossible not to notice the world’s tallest freestanding broadcasting tower - Tokyo Skytree. It pierces the sky from the opposite bank of Sumida river and is a relatively short walk from the temple.

Skytree offers an observation deck that you can visit for a fee (check prices and availability on their website: Tokyo Skytree).

building with banners of games and anime in the world of technologies, games and manga called Akihabara

The last stop in this day's plan is the temple of electronics, manga, anime and video games - Akihabara. It's glittering during the day, but even more so when it's dark, so you might want to stay there longer.

You might want to walk there to experience tourist-free zones along the way and observe the daily life of locals, or you can use the subway. Whichever way you get there - the main buzz of this so-called electric town is to the west of Akihabara station, along Chuo-dori Avenue. There’s plenty to experience and purchase in there.

pachinko machines with people playing

If you ever heard of Pachinko parlours - there are a few of them in Akihabara. You might want to play a few games or just check how it feels.

empty street with big road sign showing catfish

If you decide to stay longer to enjoy the light show of advertisement panels akin to the one at Times Square, then you might want to use the subway to get back home.

We left earlier to walk further south to our hotel, wandering through less busy streets, noticing ordinary things that are different in Japan or just look cute.

Day 4 - Tokyo. Ginza to Golden Gai

pink flowerbeds with conifer tree at the background
painter en plein air in the park with green lawn and white little flowers and coniferous trees

We've seen parks and cityscapes - so this day is planned to have a mix of both.

You can start with a stroll at the picturesque Hamarikyu Gardens. It’s a public park laid out in the Edo-period style, on the site of the 17th-century Shogun villa. Among the notable features of the park are multiple intricate bridges, colourful flower beds, and great views over the Sumida river from elevated grounds. Moreover, several ponds in the park on a calm day beautifully reflect the surrounding tall buildings.

two green matcha tea cups with two mochi deserts as part of traditional tea ceremony on the tatami floor

After a walk in the park, you might want to pop into a traditional tea house to participate in a simplified tea ceremony. The host will make you tea and explain how to properly drink it following traditional manners that include an appreciation of the beauty of the cups and mesmerizing patterns of tea leftovers.

jungle of tall buildings viewing from above from rooftop

After the park, it's convenient to explore the nearby Ginza district - a place for shopping, restaurants, cocktail bars and other entertainment. Particularly notable is the Chuo Dori street which is sometimes converted into a broad pedestrian promenade.

Among all shopping providers, the Ginza Six department store stays apart. In a modernist building with a luxurious interior, this store offers clothes, accessories and many other goods from world-famous brands, and, in addition, it has a pretty rooftop garden where you can enjoy the views or just relax.

lots of colors from advertisements on skyscrapers at midnight in the city with crescent moon in the clear night sky and a crowd of party people on the street

One of the ways to finish the day is to take a train to Shinjuku to visit the Shinjuku Golden Gai - a grid of narrow streets with tiny bars and eateries behind every door, sometimes even on top of each other. It's not the only area like this in Tokyo, but probably the most well-known one and frequented by tourists, so it can work as an introduction to this part of Japanese culture.

As a bonus, on your way there, you'll see a delightful rainbow of colours flowing into the streets from the tall buildings of Shinjuku.

Day 5 - Tokyo. Art Center and City View

big city view with mountains on the horizon with some clouds in the sky

It was the only day when we saw Fuji from Tokyo. And even on that day, the majestic mountain was only peeking from behind the clouds.

people enjoy hot weather in spring in city park having picnics

According to the plan, this day is the last in Tokyo. To make it different from the previous ones, the suggestion is to have a glimpse of the art scene.

You can start at the versatile Hinokicho Park. It features several modern sculptures, a small gallery in a pretty building, and various areas for people to enjoy the sun.

modern architecture building with curve lines and tree in front

There are several museums and galleries in the area, all within walking distance from the park - Suntory Museum of Art, Nezu Museum, National Art Center - to name a few.

Decide which one to go to based on your time, preferences and current exhibitions. We chose the National Art Center (see what’s on here: Exhibitions and Events). It is one of Japan's largest exhibition spaces, and the building is a notable work of the architect Kisho Kurokawa and is a good example of the Metabolism Movement.

When we were there it hosted a colourful installation with a relaxed vibe where visitors could lie on pillows scattered around and enjoy hundreds of Koinobori (traditional carp-shaped windsocks) hanging from the ceiling.

sunset over mount fuji from helicopter pad viewpoint at the skyscraper rooftop

Close to the Art Center, there’s Mori Art Museum. You might want to check their collection and events as well.

However, it's not only art that they have. At the very top of the building, on the helicopter pad, there's an open-air observation deck that offers unobstructed 360 views and is a thrilling experience (check their website for opening times and prices: Tokyo City View).

tokyo city view at night with tokyo tower shining with orange light

It’s definitely worth timing it right to catch the sunset to admire the remarkable lights of the Tokyo Tower and the whole city. Might be one of the best ways to end time in Tokyo by hearing and breathing this seemingly endless megapolis.

Day 6 - Mount Fuji. Hakone, Owakudani and Lake Ashi

bullet train shinkansen at train station ready to depart

There are many towns and villages around Mount Fuji. One of the more convenient ones, if going from Tokyo, might be Hakone.

The quickest way to get there is probably by a high-speed Shinkansen train. We departed from Tokyo’s Shinagawa Station (it was close to our hotel) to Odawara station, and then took a bus to Hakone.

yellow sulfur hot geothermal slopes with smoke like devil pits with cable car moving above like a spaceship above another planet

If you arrive early then a small round trip consisting of several modes of transport might be doable. It's also possible to use only parts of the route.

We opted for the full circle, and shortly after dropping our luggage at the hotel, we headed to the Hakone Ropeway. It’s a cable car that carries passengers above the Owakudani geothermal area. There’s a stop on the hill to walk around and fully experience the otherworldly landscape, its funny smell, and black-boiled eggs cooked on the spot. There are also viewpoints to admire Mount Fuji.

pirate ship waiting to set sail over lake with green enchanting hills at the back

The last stop of the ropeway is near lake Ashi.

There we boarded the so-called Pirate Ship to cross the lake to its eastern shore.

best location to view lake and red gate and mount fuji from the south east

The ship itself is just a motorized ferry. But the scenery around is magnificent.

popular instagram and photoshoot place behind the red torii gate in the woods with path leading straight into the lake

During the boat ride, on the left side, you will probably notice the tall red gate almost submerged in water. This is Heiwa no Torii gate, a popular photo spot. You might want to go there after leaving the ferry to take a pretty picture as well. To reach it you just need to walk counter clockwise along the shore. Be ready to queue for a photo a bit.

There's a historic Shinto shrine with a museum to the north of the gate that you might check while nearby.

To get back to Hakone you can take a bus from the ferry stop.

Day 7 - Mount Fuji. Kawaguchiko

There are many classic postcard views of Mount Fuji. One of them is in Kawaguchiko, which is a big town to the north-west of Hakone. There's also a beautiful lake there, so it might be a good choice for a day trip.

To get there we took a bus from Hakone to Gotemba, then another bus from there to Kawaguchiko bus station. It sounds like a hassle, but actually, the bus rides were nice and time passed quickly.

best view from above of kawaguchiko lake and the bridge from cable car carriage
folklore tale  rabbits figurines on top of cable car carriage

First, we headed to the Mount Fuji Panoramic Ropeway. It lifts passengers to the observation area and offers views of the lake and the town along the way.

one of the best locations to see mount fuji in its full glory

The main treat at the top is an unobstructed view of Mount Fuji in all its glory. If you have time then, before going back down, you might do a little hike towards a tiny cute shrine in the woods - Tenjosan Komitake.

striking red pagoda surrounded by trees and mount fuji at the background on sunny day

Then, upon returning to the town, we headed for the iconic view which is in the Arakurayama Sengen Park. To get there you can either walk or take a local train to Shimoyoshida station.

In the park, just a few hundred steps away is the Chureito Pagoda, which together with Mount Fuji makes a postcard view.

You might want to spend more time in the park, as besides the pagoda there are many other viewpoints and photo opportunities that are no less stunning.

If you manage to have more time after viewpoints there are other interesting places in the town. From the northern shore of the lake, you might behold Mount Fuji with a blanket of water in the foreground. There’s also a sightseeing boat offering excursions (check prices and availability here: boat cruises).

To get back to Hakone you can use the same two-bus route back via Gotemba.

Day 8 - Hakone Open-Air Museum

There was another reason, besides convenience, why we chose Hakone as a base. This is what this day of the itinerary is suggested to be used for.

Hakone has one of the best open-air museums we’ve been to (check prices and opening times on their website: Hakone Open-Air Museum). An abundance of sculptures from world-famous artists are scattered around a vast park which itself is mesmerizing.

Henry Moore, Picasso, Brancusi, Giacometti - just to name a few. Rich and diverse collection of the museum was carefully and thoughtfully merged with the surrounding landscape.

Even though it’s called open-air, it also has indoor exhibitions in several pavilions, some of which are works of art in their own right.

We spent most of the day there before taking a bus to Odawara train station and then boarding Shinkansen train to the old capital of Japan.

Day 9 - Kyoto. Higashiyama Jisho-ji, Heian-jingū Shrine, Kiyomizu-dera

Kyoto was the capital of Japan for eleven centuries before Tokyo and, fortunately, its many shrines, temples, and gardens were spared in the second world war for everyone to enjoy today.

The city isn’t big, but it has a small subway and local trains (you can check the map here: Subway and Trains map).

In Kyoto, you are spoilt for choice. So in this itinerary, similar to Tokyo, I suggest a little bit of everything, starting with temples and shrines.

You might start with Higashiyama Jisho-ji in the northeast. This place is a former residence turned into Zen temple. It features picturesque gardens with intricately arranged sand fields and mounds. It also has an enchanting little woodland, where grounds are covered with a variety of mosses.

A major architectural landmark of the temple is the famous pavilion nicknamed Ginkaku-ji which can be roughly translated as Silver Pavilion. It's historically valuable as a place where wabi-sabi (traditional Japanese aesthetics) was being formed under the patronage of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa in the 15th century.

As a next stop, I suggest Heian-jingū Shrine. You can reach it by walking south-west.

This place was featured in the Lost in Translation movie and is a Shinto shrine with marvellous landscaped gardens created in 1895 for Kyoto's 1100th birthday. Japanese garden architect Ogawa Jihei VII spent 20 years making it.

Then you might proceed further south to the western end of Sannenzaka, a bustling pedestrian street leading uphill and lined with souvenir stalls and traditional Japanese architecture.

If you walk this street eastbound, you will reach the vast Buddhist temple complex of Kiyomizu-dera situated on Mount Otowa. Its buildings look especially pretty in sunset light and the place offers scenic views from the spacious veranda of the main building. A good place to finish the day.

Day 10 - Kyoto. Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, Monkey Park, Kinkaku-ji, Ryōan-ji

The previous day of the itinerary was focused on shrines and temples. For a change, I suggest to start this day with a beautiful nature.

You might travel to the northwest of the city to reach the mystical Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. It’s a relatively small forest of very tall bamboo stalks which you can cross following a trail. It’s a popular place so it might be tricky to take pictures there, but it doesn't spoil much the viewing experience - you just need to look up.

The grove is part of the Arashiyama Park, which sits on the northern shore of the Katsura river. It has a nice embankment that you can use to walk back east to see traditional boats slowly parsing the turquoise waters.

You might cross the river via the wooden Togetsu-kyo Bridge and then head to the Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama (check opening hours and admission on their website: Arashiyama Monkey Park). It’s an area atop the hill where you can see wild hilarious macaque monkeys and also enjoy city views.

Kyoto has enough significant shrines and temples to easily fill weeks of sightseeing. So let's at least scratch the surface and visit more of them this day.

Start with the Kinkaku-ji in the northern part of the city. It's called Golden Pavilion and it's clear why when you see the shining structure amidst reflecting ponds, especially on a sunny day.

To finish the day I suggest going to the Ryōan-ji temple, which is slightly to the south-west. The main feature there is a famous Zen rock garden where, as they say, you can’t see all the stones at once no matter from which side you look.

Day 11 - Nara. Deer and Tōdai-ji temple

Nara is a city to the south of Kyoto, and it was also the capital of Japan at one point in time. There’s a huge Nara Park there where lots of wild friendly deer roam freely but you can buy special cookies to feed them.

As Nara is just a short train away from Kyoto - I suggest using this opportunity to have a unique experience.

Even though deer are used to people, they are still untamed animals, so use common sense when interacting with them. It’s better to quickly lose your supply of cookies rather than be bitten.

Besides deer, Nara Park has many scenic areas like Sagiike pond with a quaint gazebo, several museums, shrines, a botanical garden and a forest with ancient maple & cedar trees. Plenty of points of interest to explore from which you can choose the ones you like.

Nara is also rich in historically valuable buildings and art that go back to the 8th century when it was the capital, and the Tōdai-ji temple there has a massive 15m-high bronze Buddha statue.

All in all, Nara is a place that is worth staying in for at least a few days, so my guide serves just as a brief introduction.

If you still have time before sunset when you are back in Kyoto, you might try going to Gion district. Evening is a time when you have a higher chance of spotting elusive geiko or maiko on the streets of that district.

Day 12 - Kyoto. Fushimi Inari, Kōmyō-in Temple, Sanjūsangen-dō

At this point, you probably have seen and passed through dozens of Torii gates, but you might get yourself a treat of walking via long corridors consisting of hundreds of gates at Fushimi Inari Taisha Shinto shrine.

This place is to the south-east, and the maze of corridors is situated uphill past the main building. Every gate is someone's generous donation. You could probably place your gate there too.

There are several routes, shorter and longer ones. So choose the one you see fit.

After hilly walks amidst bright colours, you might have a relaxing time in Kōmyō-in Temple. It's located further north and is a centuries-old Buddhist temple with an elegantly arranged rock garden with trees serving as a background.

It seemed to be not on a list of popular sights and was almost empty when we were there. It felt like a truly calm space to keep quiet and let all thoughts go.

The last sight in Kyoto in this itinerary is the Sanjūsangen-dō Buddhist temple. It is known for the thousand wooden statues of the goddess Kannon. The building itself is unusually long, narrow and overall different from other temples we saw.

The few sights over several days are just a glimpse of what the old capital has to offer. If you have more time you might go to Kyoto Imperial Palace, Nijō Castle, or lose yourself in many parks, gardens and countless temples and shrines, both big and small.

Day 13 - Tokyo, matane

There might be options to fly back home from Kyoto or nearby Osaka. But our flight back was from Tokyo, so we took an early shinkansen to get there.

At one of the Tokyo stations, we saw, not for the first time, a man hoovering. Out of the all places we've been to, only in Tokyo, we saw people cleaning streets and public spaces with a vacuum cleaner.

This is the last day of the itinerary, and as it led us back to Tokyo - you might want to revisit some of the places. We chose to go to different ones.

The first place was Happo-en Gardens. It is used for weddings, and we saw a couple having a photoshoot there. But it’s also a beautiful park that benefits from being slightly off the beaten path. It has a lot to offer - bonsai trees, ponds with koi fish, and various nooks to have a rest and enjoy the scenery.

We spent most of the day in the gardens. But here are a few alternative ideas for you: wander through the streets, visit Imperial Palace and its gardens, go to Akasaka Palace and the estate around it, see Kitanomaru Park with a Budokan arena, or Rainbow Bridge, or Odaiba Seaside Park with the Statue of Liberty - interesting places in Tokyo are countless.

A suggestion of how you might finish the day - there’s the Park Hyatt Hotel in Tokyo that was featured in the Lost in Translation movie. Whether or not you are a fan of the movie, the hotel has a nice, although not cheap, "New York" bar. We went there in the evening and it was a great way to wrap up the trip listening to the music.

***

Technically, our trip had day 14 as well, but it consisted of waking up early, getting to the airport, and dreaming about coming back.

Shortcuts

If you have around 10 days then it makes sense to keep Tokyo and exclude either Kyoto or Hakone. My personal preference would be in favour of Hakone as it offers a glimpse of rural life and an abundance of nature, in contrast to the city.

In case you have a week it’s probably not worth it to travel to Kyoto, however, you can squeeze a night in Hakone as it’s not far, and keep Tokyo as the main focus.

For those of you that have around 5 days - just stay in Tokyo and make the most of it. It would be a waste to spend precious time on long-distance travel.

Tips

There are many resources out there that cover this topic in great detail. I’ll just provide a list of things that I feel are the most valuable::

  • Don’t be afraid of a language barrier. Many places, especially accommodations, can provide you with written instructions at least in English. They also have pictures and/or plastic models of meals in cafes, so you can just point your finger at what you want. And above all else, Japanese people often go above and beyond in trying to help you.

  • Even though you won’t have many troubles without knowledge of Japanese, it would be beneficial to learn at least some main phrases, like hello, excuse me, sorry etc. Locals will be quite happy to hear at least some Japanese from you.

  • Have at least some cash. Even after the pandemic, cash is still widely used and sometimes is the only way to pay.

  • Be considerate of others. By being polite and respectful, you act Japanese as the locals will act like this towards you. An easy rule is to mimic locals around you. If they are quiet - follow their lead.


That was quite a long guide. I've tried to cover all the key things, but feel free to ask questions or provide any feedback in the comments below. Thank you, and see you on another adventure!

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